The Col. William B. Cowin
in service as a passenger Ferry.
Photo Courtesy of  The Mariner's Museum

During the 3rd week of September, Harry, Jim, and I played  hooky from work to dive with Gary, as he was up here to survey some of the wrecks along the shores of southern Massachusetts for his upcoming book. Our first stop was at the wreck of the Col. William B. Cowin. The Cowin started its life as a passenger ferry and was later acquired by the U.S. Transportation Corps for wartime use. On December 17th, 1941 she struck Hens and Chickens reef and now lies in about 75 fsw, approximately three and a half miles east-south-east of Gooseberry Neck, in Westport, MA.

A sunny late summer day was ours to enjoy while most of the rest of the world was at work as the four of us headed to Westport, MA. After launching the boat, we headed down the Westport River. As we rounded the massive granite promontory at the confluence of the river and ocean, we got our first good look at the sea conditions and realized that indeed this would be a great day. We had near mirror calm and crystal clear conditions for as far as the eye could see. Now to find the wrecks.

We came upon the location that the numbers in the GPS told us a wreck was to be found, but unfortunately all we found was a flat, featureless bottom showing on the depth finder. I was not too concerned because I didn't have great faith in the first set of numbers that we were using; owing to their origination from a source that has yet to provide good information. All hope was not lost as we were armed with another set that we felt should be more accurate. Wasting little time, we aimed towards the other set that marked the Cowin. Sure enough; just as we went over the designated spot a massive form showed itself on the finder. Like a well oiled machine, all hands on the boat made themselves busy, and in short order we were hooked to the wreck on the first try!

Before long, Harry and Gary were dressed and splashing in to do their dive. Upon returning they informed Jim and I that the visibility was limited to between six and ten feet. They explained that large sections of the hull were splayed out and twisted, making it difficult to navigate around sections of the wreck and maintain one's bearings. Thus, Jim and I decided to run a line to explore the wreck. That way, we were sure of our return to the hook. It was a decision that was well made.

At the start of our dive we checked the hook to see that it was still secure and not too difficult to set free. We did not want to be dealing with a fouled hook at the end of our dive. I attached my reel and off we went. Our starting point was along the port side of the elliptically shaped stern. We headed towards the bow swimming over and around twisted and jagged steel hull plates which loomed as ominous dark shadows in the brownish-green soup that consumed us. The steel hull, boilers, and engine are the bulk of what remains of this once opulent ferry. The balance of the wooden upper decks having long since been destroyed by time and tides. We proceeded along the port side, passing the two boilers, non-typically positioned in line, due to the ship's narrow beam. Forward of the boilers, we found larger pieces of wreckage that, in the poor visibility, a careless diver could easily swim inside of without realizing it. We were forewarned by Gary of that possibility and guarded against it. Jim and I cautiously negotiated our way up and onto what may have been an upper deck level and arrived at the bow. At that point we turned around and Jim took over the wreck reel handling so that I was now freer to poke around. Following our line, we retraced the path that we originally set out on, passing the boilers again, on our way back to the stern.

The Cowin is a large and interesting wreck at almost 200 feet long. With the limited visibility and large broken hull sections, a diver can easily become disoriented.  I think the early spring, or the late fall would be a better time to dive this wreck, the visibility would improve as the plankton blooms would be less prevalent. We plan on exploring this wreck again as it is said that there are still may fine artifacts to be found, owing to the fact that this ship was once a passenger ferry. Vessels such as the Cowin, built in that period of time, were typically finely appointed with little concern for expense.

Gauge housing recovered by the author from the Hilda Garston's engine room

After pulling the hook and securing our gear we headed off to find the Hilda Garston. The Hilda Garston was a 90 foot steel scalloper that sank on February 20th, 1961 just south of Hens and Chickens Reef.

Original reports were that she hit a submarine or an iceberg. However, after a salvage diver's examination of the wreck, and his findings of a badly damaged propeller and rudder, it was determined that she most likely ran aground on Hens and Chickens Reef like the Cowin.

As we arrived at the numbers the unmistakable image of a wreck appeared on my depth finder, leading my mates to proclaim that I was having a good day at "two for two" with finding the wrecks. In jest, Gary stated that I was actually "three for three", due to the fact that I had pointed out the Angela as we motored by on our way out to the Cowin. The Angela, for those not familiar with the wreck, was a cement barge that also ran aground on part of the same reef system that caused the demise of the Cowin and Garston. She now sits perched almost "high and dry" for the world to see, her cargo of cement cured and affixing her fast to the rocks that claimed her. Finding the Angela is like finding your truck in the driveway! I would like to take credit for finding the wrecks, but on that day it was due more to good electronics and accurate information than to skillful seamanship. A good dose of luck didn't hurt either.

Once we hooked her, we saw how swift the current was running and we realized that this dive would be better done at slack tide. We would be diving in a virtual river. With a proper geri line in place, and a trailing buoy set out, Gary and Harry splashed to explore what lay at the end of our anchor rode. The current was so swift that they had to roll off the gunnels while holding a line, lest they get swept away. They returned with a report of good visibility and as one would imagine, a strong but manageable current running from bow to stern over the wreck.

Hatch Dogs recovered from a Buzzard's Bay wreck.

Jim and I went next. Arriving on the wreck we found that we were hooked about amidships, on the port rail. We had about eight to ten feet of visibility with ample light penetration. A dive light was not required as it was in the previous dive. We were on a steel hull, with wooden decks devoid of a wheel house or fishing gear. With the current running from bow to stern we worked our way - almost crawling - along the deck towards the bow and into the focsle. We then went back out, and up over the deck to the bow.

We dropped down to the sandy sea bottom and allowed the current to take us along the port side of the hull aft to the screw. At the base of the stern in about 60 fsw, we could clearly see the damage to the running gear that caused the first inspectors of this wreck to determine that she had run aground onto something hard and solid. I could see that one blade of the screw was sheared off, and the other visible blade was badly bent. Coupled with the severely twisted rudder and the now large hole in the hull just above the shaft, one could see how her fate was sealed upon hitting the rocks.

Jim deftly entered the hole in the hull as I followed. He has a reputation for entering virtually any opening that he can fit into; and sometimes some that he cannot! This one was large enough. We made our way into the area of the engine room where Jim came face to face with a monstrous Tataug; and no spear-gun in hand! With the state of decay of the vessel we were not in a totally enclosed space and had free access back to the main deck through another large opening. Back on the deck we worked our way forward, taking our time and peering into the holds and companionways while keeping a handhold to maintain our position in the current. Arriving at the bow again, we rode the current back to the hook to throw it and rejoin our friends back on the boat.

The Hilda Garston is a wreck that we will certainly visit again, albeit during a slack tide. With its shallow depth, good visibility, and intact hull, it is an easy and enjoyable dive situated only a few miles from shore.

 
On our way back to port we headed to the Angela so that Gary could take a few photographs. Though it was getting a bit later in the day, and we were all hungry, the ideal conditions of calm seas and glorious sunshine bathing a large wreck seduced Gary and Jim into a third dive for the day. I was not tempted at the time. After all; how interesting can diving on an old cement barge be? As it turned out - very interesting!

The Angela's Deck Supports

 
Gary returned and described how the wreck is broken up below the waterline and how easy it was to penetrate. With the ample sunlight breaking through the myriad holes in the upper deck, the visibility was great and it was nearly impossible to get lost inside. He described the deck supports and how there were fish everywhere he looked.

Jim came back with the same story of Tataug and Striped Bass everywhere, albeit they where quite skittish. However, they were still no match for his spear-gun, as he had several large Taugs hooked to his stringer. After hearing their description of the dive, Harry and I decided that we would do it also . . . the next time we were out here. We were hungry!

One of the many penetrations through to the upper deck of the Angela

Harry and I did in fact do a dive on the Angela two weeks later on our way back in from diving the YSD 56. It was during that dive that I shot the photographs seen here.

The Angela is a very pretty and easy dive; if the sea conditions are calm. With any significant wave action, I'm afraid that the surge would be strong and the danger of being knocked into one of the many sharp and jagged pieces of metal that adorn the Angela, like all wrecks, would be significant. With that said, under calm conditions I would not pass up a dive on the Angela.

For an in depth examination into the history, as well as the locations of shipwrecks around southern Massachusetts, be sure to get a copy of Gary Gentile's latest book Shipwrecks of Massachusetts, South from the "Popular Dive Guide Series" which is available in now. Ask your local dive shop when they will be in stock.

Better yet! Go to Gary's website and order one. While you are there, check out his other books.

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