|
 |
|
|
|
The sting of
salt spray jolted me from my state of semi consciousness. With the
drone of the twin four-stroke outboards, the warm equatorial
sunshine, and the lack of a good night's sleep in three days, it was no
wonder that I was nodding off. However, doing so perched on the
transom seat of a speeding dive boat in the middle of the Pacific
ocean may not be the wisest thing to do! I was in Yap - more
accurately, off the coast of Yap, one of the four major island
groups that
make up the Federated States of Micronesia.
Nearly
twenty-four hours earlier my travel companion Red Godin and I were
making our way through the Bush International Airport in Houston,
Texas. We first met the rest of our travel
group there. They were an eclectic variety of people hailing from all
reaches of the continental United States as well as Hawaii. Our only
known commonalities, other than final destination, was our addiction
to scuba diving and the grey t-shirts adorned with tropical fish
that we each wore to identify ourselves to other group members. We were on a Fam
(familiarization) Trip. Each of the members of our party either
owned or was associated with a dive shop and was offered this trip
by a travel agency to get acquainted with a particular destination. The idea was that we would become
familiar with different locations and then sell trips to dive
store patrons. I was along for the diving as my only
association with a dive store -besides a formerly, limited part time
job in one - is that I have friends that own them,
and like all divers I spend money in them. In this case, Red Godin, owner
of Giant Stride Dive Shop
asked me to accompany him and I was fortunate enough to have a great
wife and understanding boss that let me get away for nearly three
weeks.
|
|
Stopping in Hawaii, Guam, and Palau, we eventually
arrived in Yap around 3am. Crossing so many time zones and the
International Date Line, I can't say exactly which day it was. From
the airport the resort staff made short work of loading all of our
gear aboard a large truck and had us comfortably seated in an
air-conditioned bus for the 10 minute ride to the resort. I would
like to tell you how impressed I was with the accommodations
when I first saw the hotel,
but I can't - it was dark and I was exhausted. All that I remember
is thinking how bright and airy the lobby appeared and how cool and
clean the room was. It would take until the following day for me to
be impressed, and I was! We were housed at Bill Acker's
award
winning Manta Ray Bay Hotel &
Yap Divers. A place designed for divers by divers. Bill himself
is known as the father of diving in Yap having personally discovered
and named the majority of dive sites. I could go on and on about all
of the
amenities that the resort featured - lighted rinse tanks, dedicated
camera tables and charging stations - but it would be easier if one
simply checks out the website. However, what the website can't
describe is how genuinely friendly everyone is. By the second day,
the wait-staff and many in the resort knew our names. They were so
friendly and got to know us, and we them, that I feel like I now
have friends in Yap.
|
|
As
much as I liked the hotel and dive op, I thought that the restaurant,
where we had all of our meals,
and upper deck bar were the coolest
part of the place. It's a sailing ship! With great food and a gentle
breeze in the afternoon, it's the perfect spot to have a beer - the resort has it's own
brewery - or sip a cocktail and have a snack. It's hard to imagine
that there could be any place better to hang out in the Pacific . Did
I mention that the resort has its own brewery?
We first met
Bill Acker there at breakfast. Still a bit groggy from our marathon
half circumnavigation of the globe, Red and I, as well as a few
others in our party, shuffled onto Mnuw (the name of the ship meaning
Seahawk) for breakfast around 7am. We were just finishing a
delicious meal
featuring fish, rice, eggs, and fruit when Bill came in. An imposing
transplanted Texan with a deep tan accentuating his full head of shocking white hair
and crisp white mustache. His attire of board shorts and t-shirt
belied his position of resort owner and MBA holding business mogul. He seemed a
bit surprised to see us up so early, knowing the time that we arrived. After
sitting with us for a few minutes and chatting he asked if we wanted
to go diving. We were not scheduled to dive until later that
afternoon so his offer came as a very pleasant surprise. With his invitation we all scrambled to grab our gear and
headed for the boat. He rounded up a Captain and DM, rustled up his
gear and joined us. In no time we were pulling away from the dock. Once underway I
settled onto the seat furthest aft as it's the most comfortable
on a small boat. I remember thinking how blue the sky and sea were and wondering what kind of
dive that we would be doing. I started to relax and enjoy the
warm breeze and lulling effect afforded by the hum of the outboards as
I closed my eyes for only a moment.
|
|

A small
wave sent a shot of ocean spay across my face snapping me back to
reality. Now, here I am,
nine degrees north of the equator in the western Pacific ocean, and about as far from home as I
can get without leaving the planet. I will be here for seven days
before departing for Chuuk and getting to dive the world famous Truk
Lagoon with its legendary Japanese World War II ship wrecks. As a
wreck diver, that
is what I truly came to the far side of the world for. For the next week I will
simply have to be content
with seeing some pretty fish and possibly Manta Rays.
The change in
the sound of the engines signaled that we were approaching our dive
site. As I scanned the waters ahead of the boat I saw the weathered
mooring ball that Tim, our dive guide, was pointing out to Captain
Henry.
Once tied to the ball, Tim briefed our group about how this
dive, as well as the majority of dives throughout the week, would be
conducted.
Typically, we
would simply roll in and swim along with the slight gentle current
that usually ran along the reefs and walls surrounding this pacific
paradise. We were free to venture off on our own or casually follow
Tim. At the end of our dive, which was up to us to decide, we
would merely surface and the boat would be there to pick us up. On
the very rare occasion that a diver surfaced away from the boat, the use
of a safety sausage quickly got the Captain's attention and in short
order the boat was at the diver's side. Unencumbered by my usual
bulky dry suit, steel doubles and lead belt, the aluminum 80 and
2mil skin used on these dives felt like a day swimming at the pool.
This was a welcome change from our typical New England diving.
|
|
 With names like
Lion Fish Wall, Magic Kingdom, and Yap Caverns the
diving was spectacular. Hey, with over 100 feet of visibility, 80+ degree
water and loads of tropical fish, how can it not be? Everything
looks pretty in gin clear water! Most of the dives
seemed similar to me. Yes, they varied a bit with regard to the
sub-surface terrain. Some were more wall dives than reef dives, and
yes, Yap Caverns did indeed have caverns, but at first blush
they didn't appear much different than dives that I did in the
Caribbean.
However, after a
couple of days I came to realized that in fact the diving in the
Pacific was different than the Caribbean. For one thing, we saw many
more sharks than in the Caribbean. Nothing
frightening, just
Black and White-Tip Reef Sharks.
They were about three feet long
or so, and could be found slowly cruising along the reef. They
would quickly turn to avoid divers long before our paths would
cross. Also, there was a greater variety of fishes, and the colors
were more intense than anything that I ever saw while diving elsewhere. Of course
there was the ubiquitous Anemone Fishes (a.k.a. Clown Fish) of Nemo fame around almost
every corner, as well as Striped Lion Fish and Mandarin Fish,
. . . but alas there were no wrecks.
When I jokingly
lamented about the absence of ship wrecks, one of the veteran Yap
divers in our group said "yah, no wrecks, but there are Mantas". We
did not do a "Manta" dive yet so I quipped something to the effect
of "it's just a big fish". With that he replied - "obviously, you haven't seen
Mantas yet!"
|
|
This
day would hopefully change that fact, we were heading to Mill Channel
and the Manta cleaning stations. To get there we would be cutting across the island.
Yes; across the island, using a narrow channel which was dug through
the mangrove swamps by the German Army, by hand, during the World
War I era. Access through this channel could only be done during the
top half of the tide with the motors trimmed up. There were
occasional times
in the past when boat operators had miscalculated the time of high water and the
divers had to abandon ship and push the boat through the muddy
channel. Fortunately for us that did not occur during any of our several
runs through the swamp! It was a very interesting ride, affording us
the opportunity see and experience an ecosystem seldom seen by dive
travelers.
|
|
Like
Humphrey Bogart and Katharine Hepburn aboard the African Queen, we
eased our way through the channel making our way across the island.
Emerging from the jungle, we were rewarded with serene blue skies and a glass smooth sea state.
Without hesitation, Henry woke the engines from their
idling slumber and launched us on our way like a
stallion bolting for an open gate. Seemingly, in moments we were tied to the
mooring and donning our gear. |
|
The plan for
this dive would be a bit different than the other open water sites.
We were in a channel. It was about 60 feet deep and varied in width
from hundreds of feet to about 25. The channel was bordered by coral
reefs which came to within three feet of the surface on each side. The
drill was to follow our guide Tim to a cleaning station which was
situated 50 feet or so behind the boat towards the open ocean. There,
we would settle on the bottom and wait. The
idea was to be waiting when the Mantas came into the cleaning
station from the ocean. By keeping still and not spooking the
creatures we would observe them while they were being cleaned of
parasites. If we grew tired of waiting we could simply move off and
explore other areas on the channel walls. We merely had to stay away
from the cleaning stations so as not to scare off any Mantas. After
our dive, we
could find the boat a hundred yards or so down the
channel towards the ocean. |
|
One
by one we rolled off and made our way to the bottom. Upon Tim's
arrival he motioned for us to follow him. Using hand gestures, he
positioned each of us around a dump-truck sized coral formation. Like bubble blowing disciples we
knelt on the white sand bottom waiting for some kind of holy leader
to arrive. It didn't take long for me and some others to get a bit bored
with just waiting! One by one about half the group began dispersing to
set out and explore the side walls and coral formations. About 20
minutes passed and I was slowly making my way down the channel when
I could hear a bell. At first I thought that my ears were ringing,
but there was no mistaking it; someone was ringing a bell. Then
I realized that is must be Tim, our DM, he was signaling to
the divers. There must be Mantas about!
|
|
Heading
back towards the cleaning station was not an option as I didn't want
to scare off any Mantas that may have arrived there. I
decided to just settle down on the bottom and wait. As
soon as I found a barren white patch of sand and was comfortable
relaxing on the bottom I had the strange sense that there was
something above me. As you may know with scuba diving, one does not
usually spend time looking up, it's sort of an un-natural and
uncomfortable position to turn ones neck in. I dipped my right
shoulder and looked over my left and was shocked to see a form the
size of my office ceiling! Not showing any visible means of
propulsion, this massive diamond shaped form was slowly gliding mere
feet over my head in the direction from which I came. At that moment
I could understand how native divers once feared that these
creatures would trap and smother them on the bottom. I guess it was sort of a religious experience as my
first thought was; HOLY SH*T!
|
|
The
next day we conducted the same exercise. I waited a bit longer this
time, but I must have scuba diver's A.D.D. because before long I
was off exploring on my own again. After about 40 minutes and not seeing a
Manta, nor hearing any
bells, I started to make my way to where I knew the boat would be
waiting. As per my habit, I was hanging on the line for a safety stop at 20 feet.
The warm embrace of the tropical water combined with the rhythmic
cadence of my respiration and exhaust bubbles had me nearly drifting off to sleep . With a glance at my computer I decided to ascended
to ten feet. When I turned to my right I was startled by a winged
creature heading directly at me! With barely any noticeable movement
of its "wings" this gentle leviathan turned vertical to avoid the
mooring line in my grasp and passed barely an arm's length from me.
Yes; Mantas are
not shipwrecks, but they are far and away the most impressive
creatures that I have been lucky to see under water. It was worth
the trip just for these two dives!
|
|
The
only "bad" day that we had on Yap was the last day of diving;
because it was the last day of diving. We would be taking the
day off from diving prior to our departure for Chuuk. However, as a
bright spot to our last day, Tim and Vic, two of our boat mates,
purchased and arranged to have a keg of beer brought aboard as a
treat for the crew and divers, courtesy of
Sea Lancers Diving Club.
We
were leaving for Guam and on to Chuuk at midnight. That day we
toured the island stopping at a Stone Money Bank, a village
Men's House, Japanese World War II remnants, and learning about
the culture and beauty of this isolated gem of an island.
As one tour book
stated, "Yap is a land out of the pages of National Geographic
Magazine". A land where carved stone is still used as
Stone
Money for a dowry, or to purchase land. Men's Houses continue to
be the
meeting place for men and village elders to gather and decide
village business, as well as tell stories and pass on traditions and
educate young boys in the ways of sailing and fishing. Villages ruled by Chiefs remain interconnected by
stone pathways woven through the mangrove swamps and jungle that were
trod since before Christ was born. The beauty of the land, the honorable
and interesting culture, and the genuinely gentle and peaceful
people cannot possibly be accurately expressed with writings or
photographs. Yap is a place that has to be experienced and felt.
|
|
At
first, I
thought that Yap was merely a place to visit and see a few pretty
fish in clear warm water. Just a place to stop on the way to reaching my final destination at Truk
Lagoon. I was wrong! With
turtles and sharks on almost every dive, a virtual guarantee that
Mantas will be encountered, colors unseen in other parts of the
world, and the possibility of running into anything from Tunas to
Marlin - as some in our group did, Yap certainly should be on every
diver's list of places to dive.
In addition to
the unique and wondrous diving, Yap's beauty and island charm,
coupled with her lovely people, their culture and warmth make the
island a "must do" destination to be experienced at least once in an
adventurous scuba diver's lifetime. Yap truly is a place that stands on its own as
a destination one must visit. The only danger to warn about is that you will
long to return. . . . as I do.
|
|
Ok, time for a quick geography
lesson. Our next destination was Truk Lagoon, located in the State
of
Chuuk,
which like
Yap,
is one of the four
island groups that make up the Federated States of Micronesia (FSM).
Along with the states of
Yap and
Chuuk
there are also the states of
Pohnpei and
Kosrae.
Notice that I said
island groups, for each state is comprised of dozens of small
islands.
On February 17th, 1944 the U.S.
Navy, with the largest armada ever assembled in the history of naval
battles, launched "Operation Hailstone". For two days, carrier based
aircraft of Task Force 58 pummeled the Japanese forces entrenched
among the heavily fortified islands of Truk Lagoon. Over 400 tons of
bombs and torpedoes rained down within the fringing reefs of this
island group. In the end; more than 200 Japanese aircraft were
destroyed, over 50 ships lay on the lagoon's sea floor, and by some
counts more than a 1000 Japanese sailors, pilots, and soldiers were
killed in action. U.S. losses were listed at less than two dozen
aircraft, and damage to the carrier Intrepid. Loss of life
was under 50 individuals. For over two years leaking oil from the
sunken ships fouled the beaches. Today, the beaches are pristine,
but the evidence of Chuuk's war time history are bountiful and
easily found.
From visit-fsm.org:
"Chuuk, with its vast, shallow,
beautiful lagoon is a Mecca for wreck divers. A major shipwreck site
from WWII, Truk Lagoon is unquestionably the world's best shipwreck
diving
destination. Here,
more than 50 hulks have been transformed into "shipreefs", holding
the very best of the undersea world and maritime history at one
site. Hard and soft corals in a kaleidoscope of colors and shapes
attract divers worldwide for both daytime and night diving. The vast
selection of artifacts still found on the wrecks after five decades
are testament to the unique history of the Micronesian Islands. The
historical aspect of Truk Lagoon is not totally hidden by the
jungles. Japanese lighthouses, perched high atop the lagoon's finest
overlooks, can be reached by hiking or driving. Old runways, command
centers, gun emplacements, cave networks, hospitals and libraries
can be found with the help of a knowledgeable guide."
So, one can understand the
attraction of Truk Lagoon to a wreck diving nut and WW II history buff like
yours truly!
|
|
"Like
a
kid in a candy store". An often used expression, but so appropriate
for the way I was feeling upon my arrival in Chuuk. I was in Truk
Lagoon! Surrounded by World War II historical relics with huge, nearly intact
ship-wrecks littering the sandy sea floor just a short boat ride away. I
needed to get wet fast!
Nearly 30 hours since waking in Yap the day before and I was not
thinking about sleep! And neither was Red, or some of the
other hard-core divers in our group. Our first day in Chuuk was
supposed to be a "rest" day but Mike Musto, our group leader, made
arrangements for us to dive if we desired. Of course a bunch of us took him
up on his offer. I didn't come to Truk to sleep.
|
|
We
arrived on
the island of Moen, the capital of Chuuk, during daylight so we got a good look at the
local populace. Rustic is how I would best describe it. Yes, it is a bit
3rd worldish, but not in a destitute and poverty stricken way.
It had more of a middle-east sort of look - but without the suicide
bombers and gun toting rebels! There is virtually no violent crime, just
a bit of dust kicked up by the vehicles on the main road. Once we turned onto the road that led into the
Blue Lagoon Dive Resort &
Hotel it was as if we entered a tropical paradise. I know it sounds
cliché, but the cliché aptly applies. This former coconut plantation is now the location
of the Chuuk's premier hotel and most experienced dive operation. With
its manicured grounds and lush tropical vegetation, it could be a scene
from someone's favorite south seas movie.
|
|
|

We checked in,
stowed our luggage . . . a quick look at the room . . .OK, very nice,
AC on, nice and cool, neat and clean, let's go . . . we grabbed our gear and headed for
the Blue
Lagoon Dive Shop. There we met Owner and General Manager Gradvin
Aisek. Gradvin's father is considered the pioneer of wreck diving in
Truk Lagoon having discovered and explored the majority of the
wrecks dived today. Once signed in, we loaded the boat and set out for the
Fujikawa Maru.
During the ride out I could not keep from wondering how such an
exquisitely beautiful place must have been so hellish on those days
in February nearly 64 years ago. I know that having never personally
experienced war, I could only imagine the horror and destruction. Now we were about
to explore the by-products of humankind's foibles.
|
|
 As
Chenisio, our Dive Master, stood perched on the boat's
bow aligning land ranges, Our boat driver, Chaunky, deftly maneuvered the
vessel according to his hand signals. Without the use of a bottom
sounder nor chart plotter they found and hooked the wreck amidships, as
desired, on the first try. Most wrecks in the lagoon are not buoyed as they would
make an easy target for local "dynamite" fishermen. After a quick dive
briefing in which Cheni describe how the dive would be conducted, we
made ready to get wet. We could either follow him on a guided tour
or strike out on our own. I chose the latter.
|
|
Gas on,
everything in place, no one behind me, in I went. Ahhhh . . . For
me, the brief few seconds when I first plunge into the water are the
best. Like a full body sigh of relief I am taken to another place
and set free. The gear
becomes weightless and the cool saline solution absorbs me into its
three dimensional world. All the work, planning, travel and expense
becomes insignificant at that instant. In this case it was
extraordinary; I was finally among the wrecks of Truk Lagoon.
As the froth
from my entry dissipated I rolled to my right to see a large dark object
below me, I would come to realized it was the stack of the ship.
With 60+ feet of visibility I could easily see the deck 40 feet
below me. At over 400 feet long, I would have to do some serious
swimming to explore the entire wreck in one dive. Knowing that we
would be returning to this site in the coming days, I decide to
spend this dive on the forward half of the ship. I stopped along the
bridge deck to make a mental note of where we were tied in. Dropping
down to the main deck I passed over open cargo holds containing airplanes
and assorted parts. I continued forward along the port side just an
arms length from the rail. Peering over the edge, Sea Cucumbers
littering the sandy sea floor, and shoals of hand size fish could be
seen over 60 feet down! At the bow I lingered to read a memorial plaque
that was placed just below the gun mount. Up and over the gun I went
to the tip of the bow. Turning as I went over the bow, I descended
in a vertical position allowing myself to sink away and back from
the massive hulk while facing it. As I drifted towards the bottom I became an
insignificant speck in the shadow of the gargantuan prow towering
over me. Wicked cool!
I was at about
90 feet or so, hovering above the anchor chain with its bread-box
size links covered in a rainbow of corals and sponge when I checked my gas. Wearing only an 80 of 32% and
not the usual doubles on a wreck dive, I was vigilant about monitoring my
gas supply. It was time to turn and start heading back to the hook. Making my way up and along the side of the hull I could have
mistakenly thought that I was back in Yap doing a wall dive. There
were hard and soft corals as well as anemones and schools of fishes
everywhere. On the shallower sections, around the masts and booms, one
could easily spend a dive without traveling more than 40 feet and still not see all the
different fish and critters. There certainly is much more here than just
wreckage. Making my way to the bridge deck, I bumped into the rest of
the gang. They were returning from a guided trip inside this living
reef.
Around the stack we hovered at various depths making our stops and
enjoying the marine life around us. Too quickly, this dive was over
as one by one we
clambered back aboard the boat, the crew speedily stripping us
of our gear once aboard. At last . . . I did a wreck dive in Truk, now I can have something to eat and get some much needed
sleep.
|
|
Without
an alarm, 6am the next morning found Red and I up and about readying cameras while
anxiously awaiting breakfast which started at 7. Our gear was taken
care of by the boat crew so all we had to do was show up around 8:30.
This was going to be a three dive day and we could hardly wait to get
going. After a hearty breakfast of pancakes, eggs, and a variety of
assorted fare, our entire group made its way to the boats. We would be diving the
Fujikawa Maru again (the majority of the group did not dive it
the day before), do a surface interval while snorkeling around a
Japanese Zero, hit the
Sankisan Maru, then grab some lunch and head back out to the
Yamagiri Maru.
|
|
Back at the Fujikawa,
I joined the gang this time as we explored the stern of the ship. Dropping
over the fan tail I slowly sank while angling my way under the
counter stern to the rudder post. Sinking straight down from
that point, I came along side the barn-door sized rudder. The only
thing keeping me from swimming between it and the enormous
four-bladed screw was my desire not to disturb the myriad of hydroid
tendrils and rope corals reaching out from each one. We proceeded up
and over the port quarter rail and down into the holds of the ship.
From there Cheni took us down into the engineering spaces where we
saw the massive blast hole which put the vessel in its final resting
place.
|
|
The
balance of our dives on most of the wrecks were similar in nature,
however, each one had a variety of different artifacts to
check out and the coral
encrustation
as well as marine life was amazing. An
interesting variation was diving some of the wrecks lying on their
side. Note in the photo on the right of the
Heian Maru, like the
Yamagiri
and
Kiyuzumi Maru, it
is lying on its port side. Notice how
small the diver on the left is compared to the bow of the
Heian Maru. That will give you some sense of the enormity of
the wrecks. Penetrating these wrecks was a bit more of a
challenge due to the orientation of the decks vs. bulkheads. One of
my favorite parts of the dive on these "leaning" wrecks
was
exploring within
the space created between the curvature of the hull up to the bow
and the sea floor below. Working my way under this section of hull
was essentially a cavern dive. The ceiling of this man made cavern
is completely covered with arm waving hydroids and rope corals. Like
a cave dive, but with loads of ambient light and easy exits in
several directions.
|
|
As
fascinating as all the wrecks were, there was one that "made" the
trip for me. It lies a bit deeper than the balance of the others in
the lagoon and is not a "recreational" dive. It is important to note
that one could spend years diving in Truk Lagoon, not
exceed recreational depths, and still not see everything there!
However, there are also some sites that are a little past those
limits that can be accessed with the proper experience and gear.
After doing a few dives with Cheni, which allowed him to assess our
skill level, the guys and I on our boat asked him if we could dive
the
San Francisco Maru. I
was very fortunate to be among a group of like-minded wreck diving
"nuts", each one of them very experienced, safe, and more than
capable (some were tech instructors) to do this dive. And our DM
knew it.
|
|
For this dive
the shop provided aluminum 100s filled with air, and not the 32%
that is typically filled. We also rented 40s filled with 50%. Each
of us had a spare reg for the stage and most had multi-gas computers.
Those of us without a proper computer merely dived air tables and the
added stop time breathing 50% provided a good safety margin. We planned
a conservative run time and Cheni carried a spare 80 with a primary
and octo.
|
|
At
nearly 400 feet long, the
San Francisco Maru lies
in just over 200 feet of water. The deck is reached at 165fsw. This
site is buoyed. However, the float is tied 20 feet below the
surface. Again, so that local fisherman do not easily fish the
wreck. Only with generations of experience can individuals like
Chenisio get over it using only land ranges. Once over the
wreck, Cheni spotted the submerged float and dived in to secure the
boat. We donned our gear, rolled in, did a bubble check and started
down. At about 20 feet deep, and as soon as my eyes adjusted to the
change in light, I was amazed to see the top of the forward mast
reaching up, seemingly greeting us, from the cobalt blue depths. This was going to be an
amazing dive! Our goal was to check out the Type 95 Ha Go tanks that
are on the main deck just forward of the bridge. There are two on
the starboard side and one on the port side. The entire wreck came into
full view at about 70 feet . . . it was still nearly 100 feet below
me!
|
|
I
settled above the deck, just aft of the forward deck gun with my
partner Red hovering over my right shoulder. The conditions
were amazing; an intact wreck, 200 feet deep and I didn't need a light at
all! One probably has to be an east-coast wrecker to really
appreciate the conditions that we were in. After a quick
equipment check we set out for the tanks. Our mission was to get a
photo of the group of us around one of the them. Coming upon them
after passing the forward mast, we quickly
assembled around one of the two tanks on the starboard side while Shane Newmyer
snapped a photo. With only a 15 minute planned BT there was not a
lot of time for posing! This dive allowed us to only get as far aft
as the bridge deck. We also explored the forward hold still
containing its explosive cargo of mines and torpedoes. On a
subsequent dive we angled our way towards the stern of the ship while
descending and
alighted upon her deck about amidships. The area was heavily damaged by
a 500lb bomb hit from the USS Essex carrier based TBF
Avenger which sent the ship to the bottom. We checked out the
aft holds replete with their deadly cargo of depth charges and
torpedoes. I made a quick foray to the white sand sea floor to
investigate the remnants of a truck that rolled off the deck during
the battle. Lying in the sand at 200fsw, the truck looked like
something one would find in an old barn which could be taken and
refurbished. There was still rubber on the tires! This dive, like the
first, also ended too soon. Oh, what I would have given for my 120s!
|
|
With
our dives in Chuuk done, we spent the last day on Moen relaxing and
getting our gear packed for the trip home. I didn't get to spend any
time in town so I can't comment about life on the island and
attractions, but I don't think anyone goes to Truk for the shopping. I wanted
to use my camera and get some shots around the resort and simply
hang out. I took the time to reflect on what those days
during World War II may have been like in these islands. While the
the effects and devastation of war are readily seen among the ships
that we explored, conversely; no place better than on those same ships does the
axiom "from death comes life" appear more evident. Completely
covered in an innumerable variety of marine organisms, the ships
continue to live in spite of mankind's attempt to destroy them.
Chuuk,
like Yap is another destination that should be on every diver's list
of places to visit - particularly Wreck Divers. Besides the phenomenal diving and the beauty of
the island; the people in that part of the world, with
their warm, hospitable, and friendly manner, make it a place that
anyone who visits will surely want to return.
|
|
In
closing let me say that I think there are two main ingredients to making a
great trip. First, there is the destination, and secondly; the
people that you go there with. The destination was terrific, as
stated above. As for the people; they were the best! To start with, I had a really cool travel companion, Red
Godin, who was a lot of fun and always interesting. Also, I was
lucky and honored to be with a terrific bunch of fellow divers in
our travel group. Each and every one of them was a very capable and
experienced diver as well as being just dog-gone nice people! Thanks
to Mike Musto of
Trip-N-Tour
for putting together a well planned and executed trip. With
that said, I especially enjoyed diving with the gang on our boat in Truk Lagoon. Doug, Shane, Kevin, and of course Red, thanks for
a great time, and hopefully we will get to dive together again soon.
Dive Safe,
Dennis |
|
All under water
photographs from Yap are courtesy of Bill Acker, Manta Ray Bay Hotel &
Yap Divers. Under water photographs from Truk Lagoon are
courtesy of
James Lee of Deepscape Photography, and Shane Newmyer. Thank
You. Surface photographs are by the author. |
|
|
|
© 2007 to Present, Secret
Squirrel Divers Inc. All Rights Reserved |